If you're hunting for a 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit, chances are your old Dodge or Jeep isn't moving quite like it used to. Maybe it's slipping between second and third, or perhaps you've noticed that dreaded "hunting" feeling where the RPMs jump but the truck doesn't go anywhere. It's a common story for anyone owning a second-gen Ram, a Durango, or a Grand Cherokee from the late 90s and early 2000s. These transmissions, also known as the A518, were workhorses, but even the best workhorses get tired after a couple hundred thousand miles.
Deciding to rebuild a transmission is a big step. It's one of those projects that can feel a bit intimidating when you see all those tiny springs and check balls, but honestly, with the right parts and a bit of patience, it's totally doable. The key is making sure you don't just buy the cheapest kit you find on a random auction site. You want something that's going to last another decade, not something that'll have you pulling the unit back out in six months.
What usually comes in a 4x4 rebuild kit?
When you start shopping for a 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit, you'll notice a huge range in prices. Usually, a "master" kit is what you're looking for. A basic kit might just have gaskets and some seals, but a master kit is going to include your friction clutches, steel plates, a filter, and hopefully the bands.
The 46RE is notorious for wearing out the front band. If you lose second gear or it feels "soft," that band is probably the culprit. A good kit should include a high-quality replacement for that. You also want to look for kits that include the "sealing rings." These are the little guys that hold the hydraulic pressure where it needs to be. If they're worn out or made of cheap material, your "rebuilt" transmission will have internal leaks before you even finish the break-in period.
Since you're looking for the 4x4 version specifically, the kit will be mostly the same as the 2WD version internally, but you need to be careful about the output shaft seals and the gaskets that mate the transmission to the transfer case. There's nothing worse than finishing a rebuild only to find a puddle of ATF dripping from the tailhousing because the kit didn't have the right seal for a four-wheel-drive setup.
Why the 4x4 version is a little different
Technically, the "guts" of a 46RE are the same whether it's in a RWD truck or a 4x4 truck. The difference lies in the tailhousing and the output shaft. In a 4x4, the transmission doesn't have a long slip-yoke housing at the back; instead, it has a shorter adapter housing that bolts directly to your New Process transfer case.
When you're picking out your 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit, make sure it specifically mentions 4WD applications or at least includes the gasket for the transfer case adapter. You don't want to be halfway through the job on a Sunday afternoon and realize you have to RTV the heck out of a joint because you're missing a five-dollar paper gasket.
Also, keep in mind that 4x4 trucks usually work harder. They're heavier, they often tow, and they might spend time crawling through mud or snow. This means more heat. Heat is the number one killer of these transmissions. If you're going through the trouble of a rebuild, it's worth looking at kits that offer slightly better friction materials than what came from the factory.
Stock vs. Performance kits
Are you just trying to get your daily driver back on the road, or are you building a dedicated off-road rig? If it's just a grocery getter or a light-duty work truck, a standard OE-spec 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit is perfectly fine. These kits use materials that mimic the original BorgWarner or Raybestos clutches that the factory used.
However, if you've got a lifted Ram on 35-inch tires or you're constantly pulling a heavy trailer, you might want to look into "Stage 1" or "Heavy Duty" kits. These often come with Red Alto frictions or Kolene-coated steels. These materials can handle way more heat without glazing over. They also tend to "bite" a bit better, which gives you a crisper shift. It might feel a little firmer than the mushy factory shifts you're used to, but your transmission will thank you in the long run because it's spending less time "slipping" into gear.
Don't forget the "extra" parts
A rebuild kit is great, but it's rarely everything you actually need to do the job right. Think of the kit as the foundation. You still need to address the common failure points that the kit won't cover.
The Overdrive Unit
The 46RE is basically an old 727 Torqueflite with an overdrive unit bolted to the back. That overdrive section has a massive spring in it that's under several hundred pounds of pressure. If you're going to rebuild this yourself, be careful with that part. Many kits include the clutches for the overdrive, but they won't include the heavy-duty snap rings that often break. It's a good idea to inspect those closely.
The Valve Body
Most 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit packages don't include valve body parts beyond maybe a gasket. But the valve body is the brain of the operation. If you have the transmission apart anyway, I highly recommend picking up a "Shift Kit" or a "TransGo" kit. This fixes some of the design flaws in the hydraulic circuits, like the fact that the stock 46RE doesn't circulate fluid through the cooler while it's in Park. That's a huge reason why these things overheat.
The Solenoids
Since yours is an "E" (Electronic) version, it uses a Governor Pressure Solenoid and a Transducer. These things fail all the time. If your truck starts in third gear or refuses to downshift, it's almost always these two parts. While they aren't usually in a standard rebuild kit, you should absolutely replace them while the pan is off. It's cheap insurance.
Is this a DIY project?
I get asked this a lot. Can a regular guy with a decent set of tools install a 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit in his garage? Honestly, yes. But you have to be organized. You need a big, clean workbench. If you get a single piece of grit or lint inside the valve body, you're going to have problems.
You'll need a good set of snap ring pliers—not the cheap ones, but the heavy-duty ones. You'll also need a way to compress the clutch springs. Some people build their own press using some threaded rod and scrap metal, which works totally fine.
The hardest part of a 4x4 rebuild is simply the weight. That transmission and transfer case combo is heavy and awkward. If you're doing this on your back in a driveway, please use a real transmission jack. It's not just about making the job easier; it's about not having 250 pounds of cast iron and aluminum crush your chest.
Wrapping it up
Buying a 46re transmission 4x4 rebuild kit is a smart move if you want to keep your truck on the road without spending five grand at a transmission shop. It's a classic transmission that, once updated with some modern materials and a few hydraulic tweaks, can actually be quite reliable.
Just take your time, keep everything clean, and make sure you've got a good manual or a few high-quality teardown videos queued up. There's a certain pride in clicking that shifter into Drive and feeling the truck pull away smoothly, knowing you did all the work yourself. Plus, you'll know exactly what's inside your gearbox, which is a lot more than you can say for a mystery "rebuilt" unit from a salvage yard. Stay patient, check your clearances twice, and you'll be back in the mud or on the highway before you know it.